Surfs Up! …again!

Early morning fun and shapely Season opener (Oct 2019)

I’m excited!

Maybe the body isn’t. If the excitement becomes satiated the body will be sore. After all it is seven months of enforced absence from the wave above. No Surf for that length of time as zero North East Monsoon winds to bring swell to East Coast over four months at Peninsular Malaysia. Is like waking from seven months of increasing unsettled slumber.

Thunderstorms from the east have woken up over my part of Kuala Lumpur in the past few weeks. Have noticed the head auto corrects itself to look and sniff eastward. The vaguest scent of South China Sea drifts in with the storms. Chin has been tilting more and Nostrils have been flaring way more than the current normal. Smells like Surf. Could also be over-fertile imagination and tired hope driving the nostrils and chin to tilt eastward.

Is one of those things, you just know it in the bones. The fave surf forecast website was checked and confirmed the Bones.

To the uninitiated, the chart below may not mean much. Brown arrow is the north east corner of the South China Sea. Philippines is immediately south of the arrow tail with Taiwan to the North. Peninsular Malaysia sitting cosy down in the south-west. If I could stop go animate, the arrow (representing wind direction) in the top right would keep on moving until it runs into the east coast of the Peninsular. As a result? SWELL! Resulting from that? SURF’s UP!

Taiwan to Philippines? Span of water between is only about 350 kilometres. Pretty skinny in the context of World Oceans and swell generation. (screenshot from Magic Seaweed)

This fresh season swell normally would not appear until sometime in November. Nature is not always exact in comparison to human’s exacting time perception. Is fine by me. This swell, while not big will be nice and clean with wave period out to 10 – 12 seconds. Is being pushed from the other end of South China Sea over 2,000 kilometres away. It generates our version of a groundswell (normal for Ocean facing coastlines).

This swell will smooth out its ‘wrinkles’ by the time it gets here. Relatively rare here to have a swell of this period. Normal season is a wind-swell period between 6-9 seconds.Can be sometimes messy with this period, but certain land features like protected headlands that re-direct relentless monsoon winds do help with the quality.

Last few days, waking thoughts, sleeping and dreaming thoughts have consumed the mind ether. It must be satisfied! Compulsory! This morning accommodation was booked. Head over Thursday and come back Saturday. Thursday is a bit suspect for waves (could get a cheeky surf in) with Friday and Saturday to provide the goodies!

Will the waves serve up like the pre-season surf pic at the start? Will they be smaller? Could be larger? Will it be messy? Seriously doubt that. Tide and offshore winds looking pretty good. You don’t know unless you go and have a look. Go I will, with definitely much more than a look on my mind.

Where? Somewhere on the East Coast Peninsular Malaysia. Finding is part of the rites of passage to silky Surfer water world.

I start to move past the Board Bag and pause, “Yes my baby, you will be unzipped very soon from your seven months confining cocoon. Yes my baby, your three fins will be inserted and locked in. Your surface will be lovingly and purposefully waxed up and umbilical cord (leg rope) gleefully attached to me, body and soul. We will get wet and satiated together in Nature’s rhythmic water embrace.

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